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1 - .........15m 5c 2 - ..........15m 4b 3- ...........15m 7a 4 - ...........15m* 7b+ 5 - Fessura del Dormiglione*** 6b 6 - Celestina 15m 7c+ 7 - Fessura * 4c 8 - Sperone* 50m 6a 9 - Placca** 25m 6b 10- Zio Barbon** 50m 5b 11- Marta 25m* 6b 12- Accidenti ai denti** 60m 6b 13- Attacco Diretto 10m 6a+ 14- Panzeri*** 50m 5b 15- Alfredo* 50m 6a+ |
16- Aderonza 50m** 6a 17- Spigulin*** 25m 6a+ 18- Fessura del lavoro** 50m 5c 19- ....... 25m* 5c 20- Via Normale** 55m 5a 21- Diedrini *** 55m 5c 22- Trapano*** 35m 6a+ 23- Viria** 25m 6b+ 24- Magia Nera*** 25m 6c 25-Gatto silvestro** 25m 6c 26- Via dotto*** 40m 6a+ 27- Sotto il tetto* 25m 5b 28- Parnassius** 40m 6b+ 29- Via dei gufi*** 65m 6a 30- Tuchetitet*** 40m 6a+ |
31- Tienanmen** 25m 6c 32- Alessandro Magno***30m 6b 33- Come il castagno** 25m 6c+ 34- Essebis** 25m 6a+ 35- Athos*25m 6a+ 36-Athos diretta** 25m 6b+ 37- Lilly** 25m 6c+ 38- Lamette**15m 6a+ 39-Calypso** 30m 6b 40- Arcobaleno*** 20m 6c 41- Ala sinistra 10m 5c 42- Il diverso** 10m 6a+ (6b diretto) 43- Ala destra 10m 5a 44- Guardalinee 10m 5b |
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The other side of climbing by Prata. Rocks are
dark and the site intimidating. This is what was
reported on the old Chiavenna climbing guide.
The first routes were opened in the years
’80 of the former century and later the
place felt a bit forgotten. In the past was used
to rappel from the top, an habit always
uncomfortable. Now it is possible to follow a
good path that begins at Prata Camportaccio
Train Stop and, if you prefer, you can climb the
first pitches only or reaching the top either by
a second pitch or joining them together (80m
rope necessary!). A few cracks lines originally
climbed with friends and nuts have been left
unchanged, only belays on the top have been
added. This are signed on the topo with the name
“Trad”.
It is possible we will soon describe more routes
on this large crag offering several new
possibilities. Approach: park your car at Prata Camportaccio train Stop (take care of the signs). Here a small road leads to East and before the tunnel turn to the right hand side following a small path (red spots). After 10 min. walking you reach the base of the rock and, continuing to the right hand side, you get to the other sections.
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